Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Would you like your rat roasted or stewed?

BBC News - Cambodian rat meat: A growing export market:

"A unique harvest is under way in the rice fields of Cambodia where tens of thousands of wild rats are being trapped alive each day to feed a growing export market for the meat of rural rodents.
 Popularly considered a disease-carrying nuisance in many societies, the rice field rats, Rattus argentiventer, of this small South-East Asian nation are considered a healthy delicacy due to their free-range lifestyle and largely organic diet.
 Rat-catching season reaches its height after the rice harvest in June and July when rats have little to eat in this part of rural Kompong Cham province, some 60km from the capital Phnom Penh. "
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Sunday, August 24, 2014

Why the hair of the dog is the best hangover cure

 From the book's introduction:
I've had perfect bar moments. They're what led to this book. Here's one: I was supposed to meet a friend for an after-work drink on a swamp-sticky Washington, D.C., summer day, and I was late. I rushed across town to get to the bar and showed up a mess, the armpits of my shirt wet, hair stuck to my forehead.
The bar, though, was cool and dry—not just air-conditioner cool, but cool like they were piping in an evening from late autumn. The sun hadn't set, but inside, the dark wood paneling managed to evoke 10 p.m. In a good bar, it is always 10 p.m.
I asked for a beer; I don't remember which one. The bartender nodded, and time slowed down. He put a square napkin in front of me, grabbed a pint glass, and went to the taps. He pulled a lever, and beer streamed out of a spigot. The bartender put the glass of beer in front of me, its sides frosting with condensation. I grabbed it, felt the cold in my hand, felt its weight as I lifted it. I took a sip.
Time stopped. The world pivoted. It seems like a small transaction—a guy walks into a bar, right?—but it is the fulcrum on which this book rests, and it is the single most important event in human history. It happens thousands of times a day around the world, maybe millions, yet it is the culmination of human achievement, of human science and apprehension of the natural and technical world. Some archaeologists and anthropologists have argued that the production of beer induced human beings to settle down and develop permanent agriculture—to literally put down roots and cultivate grains instead of roam nomadically. The manufacture of alcohol was, arguably, the social and economic revolution that allowed Homo sapiens to become civilized human beings. It's the apotheosis of human life on earth. It's a miracle.
A new book on the science of alcohol has the reviewers concentrating on the suggestion that the best cure for a hangover is another drink. The hair of the dog theory is based on the possibility that because every alcoholic drink contains, as well as ethanol, small traces of the poisonous methanol, doing something about that residual methanol is what helps recovery. And how best to do that?
In high doses methanol can make people go blind or even die because the body converts it to formaldehyde, a poison used as a preservative in some laboratories.Doctors treat methanol poisoning by giving patients ethanol to prevent its change into formaldehyde. 'If methanol poisoning is at least in part responsible for a hangover, having a drink the next morning may alleviate symptoms,' said Mr Rogers although he was at pains to point out that the theory was 'hypothetical' at best.

The rise of the superfoodies

Meet the Superfoodies - the young women making healthy fun food - Telegraph:

"Move over Nigella; there’s a new breed of female foodie in town – and there’s not a chocolate-covered spoon in sight.
Sales of “healthy eating” cookbooks have more than doubled in the past year, from £3.7 million to £7.9 million, according to research by Nielsen Bookscan.

The genre has moved from a dusty niche corner of bookshops to front-table best-sellers, thanks to a surge in the popularity of women writers who combine cooking, couture and super-healthy lifestyles.

Where Nigella sold us butter-rich, cream-soaked self-indulgence, the new fashionable “superfoodies” are all about buckwheat, beetroot and gluten-free goodness.

It's meat and two veg, but not as you know it. This is the kind of book that will ease you gently into healthier ways of cooking and eating, as opposed to shaming you into the health food shop. - Review in The Guardian
The surprise publishing hit of the year has been The Art of Eating Well by sisters Melissa and Jasmine Hemsley. Former model Jasmine, 34, and footwear brand manager Melissa, 28, are first-time authors but have already knocked Jamie Oliver and Mary Berry off the top of the Amazon charts with their lavishly photographed, super-healthy collection of recipes."

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Saturday, August 23, 2014

Rick Stein - not just a smiley Cornish face

You can sneer, if you like, at chefs selling out to commercial considerations but it’s really, really hard to find anything but good to say about what Stein has pulled off here. Great food, talented people, happy punters and a glorious halo effect that’s spreading the good.
That's the verdict of the reviewer in today's Financial Times on what Rick Stein has done for Cornwall's Padstow. The TV chef himself might not often appear in the town these days but his assortment of "restaurants, chip shops, hotel, hip B&B rooms, bakery, deli and kitchenware and souvenir emporium" makes an otherwise ordinary coastal town "the model 'foodie destination' and envy of hundreds of other aspiring small towns."
The story is a refreshing change from the normal knocking of the tall poppies in restaurant reviews. It not only praised the quality of the seafood in his own establishment but acknowledged how his presence in Padstow had allowed other gifted chefs to thrive on the tourist trade he drives.
The FT's words encourage me to visit Rick Stein's Australian presence at Mollymook on the south coast of New South Wales.
Rick Stein at his Mollymook restaurant

The Spanish snail eaters showed the way


No. When it came to eating snails It was not the French but the Spanish who showed the way. A paper published in the journal Plos One estimates that Palaeolithic humans in Spain began eating snails 10,000 years earlier than their Mediterranean neighbours.
Archaeologists working in Cova de la Barriada have found large and concentrated amounts of snail shells among stone tools and other animal remains in pits that were used for cooking during the early Gravettian era - 32,000 to 26,000 years ago.
Lead author Dr Javier Fernández-López de Pablo, from the Catalan Insitute of Human Palaeoecology and Evolution, told BBC News: "What this suggests is that these groups [of humans] had already opted for a strategy of diet diversification that allowed them to increase their population."

Wealthy people in China who no longer have to work – so they just devote themselves to eating.

The story of a remarkable restaurant that addresses the question off why Chinese cuisine is the ghost at the feast of global gastronomy. Despite a rich gastronomic tradition dating back more than two millennia and a remarkable history of culinary innovation, writes Fuchsia Dunlop, Chinese food is almost invisible at the highest international levels.

Chengdu chef Lan Guijun: the new emperor of Chinese gastronomy - FT.com:

"Lan Guijun is the latest Chengdu chef to throw down the gauntlet before the international arbiters of gastronomy. His tiny restaurant, Yu Zhi Lan, seeks to offer the luxury, intimacy and culinary perfection of an establishment like the French Laundry in Yountville, California, but in terms of classic Chinese cuisine.




Yu Zhi Lan is named after a rare Chinese orchid that was once a favourite of the Empress Dowager Cixi. It consists of a central hall, a kitchen and just three private rooms seating a maximum of 18 guests: dining is by appointment only. Lan runs the place with Lü Zhongyu, his wife and sous-chef, and six employees. The restaurant opened quietly in August 2011 and its fame has spread among food-lovers in China, Hong Kong and Japan."



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Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Albert Street Food & Wine

Albert St Food & Wine
Address382 Sydney Rd, Brunswick, Melbourne
StateVictoria
Postcode3056
Phone(03) 8354 6600
Websitealbertst.com.au
StyleModern Australian
ReviewsGourmet Traveller
Herald Sun - Dan Stock:"The cooking is confident, interesting; the flavours bold, inventive." 5 Aug 2014


Monday, August 18, 2014

The nose-to-tail philosophy that heralded a global culinary revolution

St John's five rules for success: 'No music, no art, no garnishes, no flowers, no service charge' | Life and style | The Observer:



"In October, St John, in Clerkenwell, east London, will be 20 years old. In itself, this should not be an extraordinary thing. Two decades: it's hardly a lifetime. But restaurant years, like dog years, are different. The capital has a handful of longstanding dining institutions: bustling Sweetings, in the City; Rules, purveyor of game in Covent Garden; Wiltons, where one may eat oysters in Mayfair, assuming one has first remortgaged one's home. Pretty much everywhere else is in constant flux, joints opening and closing, chefs arriving and leaving, the crowd descending and then, ever-fickle, moving on: an exhausting and sometimes heartbreaking spin cycle of briefly modish ingredients, cuisines and cooks.

How, then, to explain St John's long, happy and singular life? Its proprietors, Fergus Henderson, formerly its chef, and Trevor Gulliver, his business partner, are damned if they know. "We just quietly go about our business," says Gulliver, coffee slopping over the side of his cup as he slaps the table. "We don't do vision." Henderson contemplatively sips his mid-morning madeira. "Yes, and there's still lots to do," he says. "There's always tweaking to be done." Better to list the things they don't believe in than those they do. Set menus? Not even when business is bad. Posh wines from around the world? France will suffice. Bawling out the staff? Not necessary. The lure of MasterChef? No, thanks. Finally, they come up with a word: rigour. "There is a rigour here," says Gulliver. "You have to be quite stubborn to do something like this.""



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Sunday, August 17, 2014

Try a scrambled plant protein for breakfast

Hampton Creek takes crack at breaking up egg industry - SFGate:

"The yellow batter splashed with a sizzle across the frying pan. Teased with a spatula, it thickened into dense, fluffy puffs.

Scrambled eggs are among the plainest of dishes, but these tasted even plainer than usual. That was because these were not, in fact, eggs, but plant proteins.

The dish, scrambled in a trendy San Francisco work space, was an experiment in both cuisine and science. The startup behind it, Hampton Creek, wants to do nothing less than rethink the way food is made. Its first challenge is to replace chicken-bred eggs with healthy, tasty plant substitutes, and topple a colossal industry that churns out 1.1 trillion eggs annually."



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Thursday, August 14, 2014

Ardeche

RestaurantArdeche Restaurant
Street address222 City Walk
SuburbCivic
StateACT
Postcode2601
Phone02 6230 4800
Website
StyleFrench
Awards 2014 Fairfax Good Food Guides
Awards Gourmet Guide
The Australian Top 50
Restaurant & Catering Awards
Other AwardsNo. 91 Trip Advisor Canberra
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Owner's note

Alice Thai Restaurant

RestaurantAlice Thai Restaurant
Street address19-21 E Row
SuburbCanberra
StateACT
Postcode2601
Phone02 6162 0940
Website
StyleThai
Awards 2014 Fairfax Good Food Guides
Awards Gourmet Guide
The Australian Top 50
Restaurant & Catering Awards
Other AwardsNo. 61 Trip Advisor Canberra
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Owner's note

Adore Tea House

RestaurantAdore Tea House
Street address18 O'Hanlon Place
SuburbGold Creek
StateACT
Postcode2913
Phone02 6230 9962
Websitehttp://www.adoretea.com.au/Adore-Tea-Gold-Creek-26.html
StyleTea room
Awards 2014 Fairfax Good Food Guides
Awards Gourmet Guide
The Australian Top 50
Restaurant & Catering Awards
Other AwardsNo. 51 Trip Advisor Canberra
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Owner's note

Belluci's Manuka

RestaurantBelluci's Manuka
Street addressCnr Franklin & Furneaux Sts
SuburbManuka
StateACT
Postcode2603
Phone02 6239 7424
Websitehttp://www.bellucis.com.au/
StyleItalian
Awards 2014 Fairfax Good Food Guides
Awards Gourmet Guide
The Australian Top 50
Restaurant & Catering Awards
Other Awards
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Owner's note

Belluci's Dickson

RestaurantBelluci's Dickson
Street addressCnr Cape & Woolley Sts
SuburbDickson
StateACT
Postcode2602
Phone02 6257 7717
Websitehttp://www.bellucis.com.au/
StyleItalian
Awards 2014 Fairfax Good Food Guides
Awards Gourmet Guide
The Australian Top 50
Restaurant & Catering Awards
Other Awards
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Reviews & Notes
Reviewer
Owner's note

Sunday, August 10, 2014

Try sake with your oysters

Sake With Your Burger? Japan Is Looking West to Save a Tradition - NYTimes.com:

Kensuke Shichida, the head of a centuries-old sake brewery in southern Japan, had spent a dizzying week in London restaurants tasting a variety of exotic and confounding dishes: pub food, gourmet burgers, French food, Angus beef, ceviche.
The experience left him slightly bewildered and slightly ill, he said, suffering from a food hangover.
But Mr. Shichida, 43, is on a mission, he said, to bring his family-brewed sake to European restaurants and pair it with Western cuisine, which means charting new territory. It is an exercise of necessity. Japan is proud of its sake heritage, but sales have been falling for decades, and Mr. Shichida and a number of other brewers are trying to help reverse its decline before it is too late. ...
"Fresh oysters, for example, usually go well with Champagne or Chablis, which have a crisp acidity. But Mr. Shichida, who runs the 140-year-old Tenzan brewery, says sake works better. The drink is mellower and less acidic, and its cleansing properties help remove the oysters’ briny taste, he said. And sake’s umami — a savory sensation considered to be the “fifth taste” — helps improve their fleshiness."

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Friday, August 1, 2014

Big brewers pretending to be small

We had a classic proof earlier this year that Australian brewers don’t mind engaging in a little bit of deception. And the practice, it seems, is international among the big brewers.
In April the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission accepted a court enforceable undertaking from Carlton & United Breweries (CUB) in relation to ACCC concerns that it represented that Byron Bay Pale Lager was brewed by a small brewer in Byron Bay when this was not the case. CUB paid two Infringement Notices to the value of $20,400 in relation to this conduct.
Now media reports from the United States give details of how declining sales of mainstream brews sees roll out phony craft beers—brands like ShockTop and Blue Moon—and buy up legit craft brewers like Chicago’s Goose Island. Writes Mother Jones:
Other ersatz “craft” beers include Leinenkugel, Killian’s, Batch 19, and Third Shift. The strategy has been successful, to a point. Bloomberg reports that InBev has seen its Goose Island and Shock Top sales surge.
But there’s a catch: These stealth Big Beer brands aren’t “putting the microbrewers who started the movement out of business,” Bloomberg reports. Rather, “the new labels are taking sales from already-troubled mass-market brands owned by the industry giants peddling these crafty brews.” In other words, consumers aren’t dropping Sierra Nevada or Dogfish Head and reaching for the Shocktop. Rather, ShockTop sales are being propped up by refugees from Bud Light and the like.
Misleading Byron Bay beer label
Description on the back label
The Byron Bay Brewing Co is located on Skinner’s Shoot Road in Byron Bay. We’re housed in a historic location, a birthplace of much of the fame and spirit of Byron Bay which has attracted local and international musicians, artists and alternative thinkers since the ‘70s. Next time you’re in town, drop in and have a beer.
Brewed in NSW by the Byron Bay Brewing Company and its Licensees
The Australia experience, as explained by the ACCC, was that in 2013, CUB began supplying Byron Bay Pale Lager with labelling that incorporated the name Byron Bay Pale Lager, a pictorial representation of a lighthouse, text regarding Byron Bay and a map of the Byron Bay region showing the location of the Byron Bay Brewing Company. In fact, the beer was brewed by CUB at its brewery in Warnervale, some 630km away from Byron Bay.
The Byron Bay Brewing Company is a small brewery that, via its parent, licensed to CUB the right to supply Byron Bay Pale Lager Australia wide. The Byron Bay Brewing Company only brews Byron Bay Pale Lager for sale on tap at its site in Byron Bay.
“Many small brewers cater to consumers who prefer to support small, niche businesses. When large companies portray themselves as small businesses, it undermines the unique selling point that such small businesses depend upon, and it misleads consumers,” ACCC Chairman Rod Sims said.
“The ACCC will be writing to other participants putting them on notice of this matter in order to ensure that marketing and labelling in the beer market appropriately reflects where and by whom beer is brewed.”
In providing the enforceable undertaking, CUB acknowledged that the labelling may have misled consumers. CUB has agreed to cease distribution of product with the misleading labelling. More generally, CUB has undertaken that it will not make false or misleading representations concerning the scale of the brewery in which its products are brewed or the place of origin of its products.
CUB will place corrective notices on its website and in trade publications, and it will also provide a corrective notice for retailers to display at point-of-sale.
“This is an outcome that protects the interests of both beer buyers and small brewers.” Mr Sims said.