A restaurant reviewer's words of the week - an olive bowl designed around the concept of sharing

My restaurant review quote of the week comes from A.A.Gill in London's Sunday Times.
Writing of a visit to the recently opened Switch House, Level 9, Tate Modern, Bankside, London SE1 9TG:

The menu is one of those lists put together by a committee to include edible cultural signifiers, trendy favourites and politically neutral ingredients. A note at the bottom says that the steak knives are hand-finished in Peckham, which doesn’t make the steak taste different, and that the olive bowl is designed around the concept of sharing. I love a bowl with a concept. The salt cellars reflect the exterior of the building, apparently, with a velvety roughness, and all the staff are paid a London living wage.