The finest culinary minds in the city have attempted to raise the burger, fried chicken, corn dogs, and even the lowly tater tot to the level of gourmet cuisine. So it was only a matter of time before New York’s elite chefs turned their considerable energies to that most tired of all big-city-dining rituals: the weekend brunch. Take the trio of dainty ham-and-cheese “éclairs,” served three to a plate, on the new Sunday menu at Wylie Dufresne’s high-minded East Village gastropub, Alder. These ethereal little creations taste like gougères and are decked with brittle, candylike ribbons of ham. You can complement them with a whole variety of other cutting-edge Sunday specials (the dreaded B-word appears nowhere on the menu), like small helpings of headcheese arranged with rolls of the eggy Japanese tamago; bacon tarts capped with crisped, buttery wheels of pommes Anna; and an inspired new creation called “frog leg wontons,” which Dufresne and his henchmen construct with little ravioli-size dumplings stuffed with frogs’ legs, spoonfuls of steamy ginger-and-carrot soup, and a decorative topping of brightly colored nasturtium petals, which float on top of the broth like lily pads in a Japanese scroll painting.
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