Sunday, April 27, 2014

Another old wine scandal?

I am a drinker not a hoarder and have never been into the cellaring business. Thus it is I look with a little bemusement at stories about purchasers of old wine vintages feeling cheated. What's the point of having a hundred year old bottle that you paid thousands for? No one in their right mind would think it was going to be better to drink than something ten percent of the age. Not that the rich mugs with money ever intend to find out. To them old vintages are a trophy to be displayed not drunk. They might not deserve being conned but don't get much sympathy from me.
The latest potential scandal involves an Atlanta real estate developer Julian LeCraw who has sued the Antique Wine Company for selling him some very expensive bottles of what he he claims to be counterfeit wine. One of these, priced at $100,000 and said to be the world's most expensive white wine, was a 1787 vintage of Château d'Yquem. The Daily Meal website reports that LeCraw,a fine wine collector, claims to have bought numerous bottles of wine from the Antique Wine Company, a well-known international distributor of wine based in England, including this one. Each of the 13 wines LeCraw has purchased from Stephen Williams, CEO of the Antique Wine Company, has been analyzed in a wine report by expert Maureen Downey.
“The Downey Report explains why each bottle of fake wine is not what it purports to be," the complaint states. "For instance, on some of the bottles that are supposedly centuries old, the labels were printed by computer. Others show excess glue around the labels which could not have been used by the châteaux. Other indicia of counterfeiting relates to the corks, the capsules, the sediment inside the bottle, the shape and color of the bottle, and the color of the liquid in the bottle, among other things."
The Antique Wine Company has responded to these claims with evidence that allegedly proves that the wines are genuine. "This evidence includes extensive information provided at the time of the sales to show the authenticity of the wines and subsequent documents verifying the original information," a representative of the company told The Daily Meal. "The Antique Wine Company, since its inception in 1989, has supplied hundreds of bottles of highly valuable wine to customers around the world. Ensuring the authenticity of these wines is paramount and they maintain extensive records proving traceability from the suppliers to the company and beyond including documents from chateaux and producers."
The defendant is asking for $3 million in damages in the case, which was filed in Atlanta on April 17.
Those of you interested in such shenanigans will find fuller detail on the website of Jancis Robertson



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