Back to making it French and simple

Adam Platt’s Where to Eat 2017:

" When I visited Paris not so long ago, though, the real dining sophisticates all seemed to be obsessed with simpler, more comforting pleasures, like terrine de veau, celery-root rémoulade, and country chicken cooked with vegetables in a pot for two. And so it is right here in New York City. All of the trendiest, most fashion-conscious food groupies I know are clamoring for tables at a whole crop of new haute bistro establishments, where the chefs trained for long years in places like Paris and Lyon and the carefully scripted menus are filled with pleasing, formerly vanished recipes with familiar poetic names, like tête de veau ravigote, canard à l’orange, and terrine de foie gras en croûte."



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