Friday, December 30, 2016

The wonderful nonsense called terroir

Whisky’s new terroir:

From The Financial Times


Can a whisky ever really taste of a place? If you’re a fan of Speyside malts, or a dyed-in-the-wool Islay drinker, then you’re probably thinking: yes, of course it can. Yet the average Scotch whisky is actually a bit of a mongrel, made with barley that can come from Scotland, England or Europe, aged in oak (arguably the biggest factor in a whisky’s flavour) grown in the US or Spain. Peat can certainly impart regional character, but the water source is not nearly as important as whisky marketeers would have you believe. In fact, the most Scottish ingredient in Scotch whisky is probably the climate: cool, damp and temperate, it promotes a kind of stately maturation that’s entirely different to hot-and-cold Kentucky, or the tropical Caribbean.

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